Trip to the Huang Shan

typical view in the mountains

Last weekend we took a trip to the 黄山 (huáng shān) „Yellow mountains“, which was organised by the language partner of Christine (one of the girls in our program). The yellow mountains are actually really famous in China. It is said that once you have been there you don't need to see the other mountains in China anymore. And it is said to be unlucky to go back the same way you came there. Especially the sunset and -rise are the first thing that come to people's minds. I still haven't figured out why you would call them yellow though. I dind't feel like that was their most distinctive trait. On Friday, we went there by train (about 7 hour ride), and stayed the first night in a hotel in the city. Early on staurday morning we left to get to the mountains. We were really lucky with the weather, it was really warm, and I actually got sunburnt in the end of november. It's a really beautiful area and even on the way there the world already looked a lot more „Chinese“ than in Nanjing. Even in November there were way too many people and like in most parks I've seen so far all the tracks are paved and there are just millions of steps. But I must say that I found it great that no streets or extensively big buildings on the peaks were destroying the landscape as one might encounter it in different places all over the world.

on the left is the group I went with

In recreational areas the number of people asking to take a picture with you or even sometimes secretely taking them, only because you are a 老外 (lǎowài) „~foreigner“, seems to be heightened. But especially Christine with her white skin and straight, very long, dark hair is very popular for these pictures. We climbed a lot of peaks and the view was amazing. Apparently every stone and a lot of the pine trees have a name and a history to themselves. It was also the first time that I really saw bamboo growing like normal trees in a forest. There are also wild monkeys in that area, but we didn't see any. Probably to the best, because they aren't afraid of people and are supposed to get really annoying. On every peak one could get the name engraved on a medal, and on every scenic spot, couples could buy locks and but them on the fences. Since there are no streets, hundreds of carriers are running around with huge loads and you can also book them for carrying people on a seat mounted on two bamboo sticks. Seeing these man carrying somebody up a steep staircase, I really got reminded of feudal times.

sunset

The next night we spent in a hotel in the mountains. So we really could enjoy the great view of the sunset. I was once again a little amazed at the openness at which hotels (but also other places) explain to you that you have to pay more, because you are a foreigner. It seems normal to everybody and the prices are still really good, but it's still irritating. If you are bargaining it is one thing to try a higher price, but to use it openly as a fixed rule... Anyways, the next day we were not quite as lucky, the sunrise was mostly covered by clouds and it was starting to rain. But it was still worth it. In the train back we luckily had some beds. It's always three beds over each other. Even though next to us were some people snoring extremely loudly I managed to find some sleep and monday morning at 3 am we were back. I found it really great how Christines language partner took care of us. It was her first time in the mountains as well and I hope she also got to enjoy it through all the work and worrying she has been doing. 

tourist street with nice art

In Nanjing autumn is a little more noticeable now, but it's still green outside. The landlord was supposed to come by yesterday for rent and the bills, but he didn't. Tomorrow classes as usual. And that's it... :-)

November

temple on Qixishan

So it's been quite a while now. It's steadily getting colder, the fall is coming and with it the typical autumn in the personal phases that characterize such one-year-trips. With alle the on-going debates about integration in Germany, one unevitably reflects the own situation. Even though last Sunday I went to a German restaurant to eat a „Schnitzel“ and watch „Tatort“ (usually considered the complete failure of integration for a German in a foreign country, if done regularly), I think it's not quite as bad. In daily life (shopping, eating, taking a cab, ...) I usually don't encounter any major problems, but still I notice something is missing. In retrospect I'm not sure if I really should have chosen Nanjing. From reports of others, the density of foreigners and people who speak English here seems to be even worse than in Bejing and Shanghai. The general problem of exchange programs for students is that there are very few occasions to get mixed with Chinese. Nanjing is a nice city and on one side it would be sad not to be here, on the other hand I feel like I would have a much better chance to get to know China if I were to be somewhere far out in the middle of nowhere. In order to overcome that I considered volunteer work as an idea, but it turned out to be very hard to offer work for free. Apparently Chinese are so hospitable, that they feel to have the obligation to care so much for you, that having a volunteer is much more work than not having one. Quite honestly, I'm getting quite frustrated with that situation, because right now (in comparison to my other trips to other countries) I don't even see the prospect of ever having an impression after one year of what being a Chinese could mean.

autumn

Looking at other students from my program, I have noticed that it makes a huge difference living together with Chinese. Getting money for being here, makes me feel obligated to make this year a success and i know that I'm being impatient, but this is just a part of the autumn-phase. :-)

Besides that not a lot happened since my last entry. We already took our mid-term exams and finished our first book. Some people dropped by to have us answer for the Chinese census (luckily only 7 questions for foreigners and not 20 or 40 like for Chinese) and I took an 二胡(èrhú) class. It's a traditional Chinese instrument, similar to the cello, but the sound is very Chinese. I also booked my tickets for my trip back for Christmas.

Actually now is a good place to tell a small Christmas story: One night we came back from eating at a restaurant. Walking over one of the biggest crossings in Nanjing we came to notice a strange light on the blue nightsky. It was moving, colourful, blinking and we definitely had no inkling of what it might be. Obviously the first idea: an UFO. But then it struck me and I came to realize: we are three wise men from different parts of the world, in the East, carrying some presents on us (money, a bottle of water, …) ... this must be a sign. So the three „wise“ men decided to follow the star even though it was actually already quite cold outside and they were a little eager to get back home fairly quickly. Luckily we didn't have to walk too far, just up a small hill to the wutaishan sports center. Having a little expected to find a stable, we had to realize that an old man was playing with an kite wired to some bulbs. Having solved this riddle and already on our way back we overheard a couple of small children who were also following the weird light in the sky. Obviously we didn't tell them what it was...

small group photo on the mountain
the four on the right
 are in the same program

One actually gets to see kites, fans, fireworks or umbrellas more often here than one would generally in Europe. On the other hand they are usually not as spectacular as one might expect.

Another great experience I had was getting my hair cut. Since wages are really low and therefore it is not really worth testing one of the smaller hair cutting places, that sometimes offer services I'm not really interested in, I went to a big shop on one of the biggest streets. For approximately 3 euros, about 4 or 5 people were involved my hair cut, the most outstanding being the so called „master“ who first threw some sort of cowboy belt filled with all imaginable hair utensils around his body, and then with big gestures and his own hair flying around me started cutting every single hair on my head by itself. At least that was what it looked like and how long it took. Actually, in every small shop there are about three or four accountants, everyday somebody is sweeping all the streets and in malls there is always somebody whose sole job is putting a stamp on the receipts of the customers. Comparing that to the prices and the numbers of customers, one can get a feeling how little those people earn in comparison. That is probably also why there is often put a lot of effort into seemingly small wishes. The service is in regard to what is actually done for the customers really amazing, but in regard to the very rough tone sometimes unbearable. It's the same with people shouting 服务员(fúwùyuán) „waitor“ through the whole restaurant, or that if you dind't know better you would start thinking your name was 喂 (wèi) „hey“ or something like that, with all the bikes shouting at you to get out of their way or people yelling angrily about the smallest things to strangers. In contrast to that, once you only mention a small problem on the side to somebody you just know a little bit, they start worrying about it much more than you ever would and spend a lot of time trying to help. So much that you don't want to mention problems anymore, because you don't want to be the reason for so many troubles.

Kunju

One weekend ago we went to the 栖霞山(qī xiá shān) „Mount Qixia“ in Nanjing, which is supposed to be really beautiful and colourful in the autumn. In Nanjing City itself the fall is not really noticeable, the leaves just seem to fall down green or just slightly brown. We went in a mixed group of Germans and Chinese students of German law. During the cab ride I learned that there is about 10000 taxis in Nanjing and that might also be about the amount of steps that we took on that mountain. From the top I got my first small glimpse of the 长江 (chángjiāng) „Yangtse 'long river'“. It was still pretty green, but some of the leaves already showed some color. On the foot of the mountain we got to see a small buddhist temple. After all it was really, really nice to get outside of the city and get to see a bit more than just high-rises.
We also got to see a kunju-piece from which the jingju (Beijing Opera) evolved. Nanjing is one of the few cities in which one can go see such performances on a regular basis. The high pitch they are singing in is actually not causing as big a headache as I would have imagined earlier^^